The Stampone Family Cookbook

Eating is a serious matter in Italy and is just as serious in the Stampone Family.  It seems Italians learn to cook before they learn to walk or talk.  Whether at home with family and friends, or in a fancy restaurant for a special occasion, cooking Italian style is synonymous with fresh flavors, great wine, and the best of friends.  Whether rustic or sophisticated, Italian cooking has always been based on fresh seasonal ingredients.

In the recent past, American chefs and restauranteurs have begun to focus on local ingredients in what has been coined the “farm to

Max's Harvest - Delray Beach FL

table movement”.  I have always found this curiously funny, since our family and Italians in general have been growing and choosing seasonal ingredients and cooking in this fashion for 100 years.  This expression in the use of local, sustainable ingredients, is why Italian food varies so much from region to region and even village to village.  Italians have always followed the rhythm of the seasons and will wait until spring before choosing asparagus, or the summer for a fresh mozzarella and tomato salad.  And when autumn rolls around, everyone is ready for a warm plate of braised beef in Barolo.  From a simple spaghetti with garlic and oil, to a penne allà arrabbiata, authentic Italian dishes are often based on just a few humble ingredients.  What makes them so tasty and delicious is over the centuries Italians have discovered how to achieve the perfect mix of seasonal flavors – this perfection has been achieved through centuries of testing in family kitchens just like ours.

The Max Group of Restaurants

And so, it is with this heritage in mind that I am assembling the Stampone Family Cookbook.  These will be the recipes which we will pass onto our children, teaching them the skills of their parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles, and all who have gone before them.  It is my hope this will allow them to understand what Italian cooking is all about, a celebration of family, and an appreciation for a heritage which they are so fortunate to be part of.

And although this collection of recipes will be fondly referred to as the “Stampone Family Cookbook”, the contribution will extend far beyond the Stampones alone.  Just as the many regions of Italy have played a vital role in Italian cuisine, so has the marriage of families.  From the Rosatos, Vizzas and Lentinis, to the Contorni of dishes of the McGraths, Fosters, and Kramers, all have contributed to the spirit of the collection.

Many of you have asked that I return some of the recipes which previously appeared on our prior website.  Over the next few months, I hope to provide a sampling for your continued reference.  I also hope to offer you the opportunity to make the gastronomy of our family, part of your life as well.  Buon appetito!

My Sister-in-Law, Eva’s, Ridiculously Good Spinach Salad

SALAD INGREDIENTS
Fresh Spinach
8 oz sliced white mushrooms
2 hard boiled eggs chopped
Fresh bacon bits
Croutons

DRESSING INGREDIENTS
1 small onion minced
1 cup vegetable oil
¼ cup cider vinegar
½ cup sugar
2 tbsp. Grey Poupon mustard
2 tbsp. Ketchup
1 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp. Fresh lemon juice

Clean and prepare salad ingredients and mix in a large bowl.  In a separate container, mix dressing ingredients together starting with the oil and vinegar.  Add sugar, onion, mustard, ketchup, Worchestershire and lemon juice.  Mix thoroughly and shake well before dressing the salad.  Serve chilled.

Lawyers Have to Eat Too
“Joe’s Bows”

This rich, creamy pink sauce is offset by a generous dose of red pepper.  Heat 2 tbl.of olive oil in a large skillet over med. heat.  Add 1 lb. sweet Italian sausage (crumbled/casings removed) and a ½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (or simply use hot sausage, we prefer Hatfield brand) – cook until no longer pink, stirring frequently (about 7 minutes).  Add ½ cup diced onions and 3 garlic cloves minced – cook until onion is tender and sausage is light brown (about 7 minutes).  Add one 28 oz. can Italian plum tomatoes coursely chopped (preferably San Marzano), 1-1/2 cups of heavy cream and ½ teaspoon of salt – simmer until sauce thickens slightly (approximately 4 minutes).  Place aside.

Cook 12 oz. DeCecco bowtie pasta (Farfalle) in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente (firm to bite).

Bring sauce to a simmer and add the cooked pasta until heated through and the sauce thickens (about 2 minutes).  Divide pasta among four plates, sprinkle generously with freshly grated Parmagiano-Reggiano. (If you own one of those green cans of alleged parmesan, proceed no further.  Immediately remove it from your household and never buy it again).   Top with 3 tablespoons freshly minced basil or parsley.  Buon Appetito!

The Month of Romance

The history of Valentine’s Day – - and the story of its patron saint – - is shrouded in mystery and contains vestiges of both Christian and ancient Roman tradition.  But who was Saint Valentine, and how did he become associated with February, the month of romance?  The Catholic Church recognizes at least three different saints named Valentine or Valentinus, all of whom were martyred.

The Valentines honored on February 14 are Valentine of Rome and Valentine of Terni.  Valentine of Rome was a priest in Rome who was martyred about AD 269 and was buried on the Via Flaminia.   His relics are at the Church of Saint Praxed in Rome, and at Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church in Dublin, Ireland.

St. Valentine

Valentine of Terni became Bishop of Interamna (modern Terni) about AD 197 and is said to have been martyred during the persecution under the Roman Emperor, Aurelian.  He is also buried on the Via Flaminia, but in a different location than Valentine of Rome.  His relics are at the Basilica of Saint Valentine in Terni (Basilica di San Valentino).

A third saint named Valentine was also mentioned in early martyrologies under date of February 14.  He was martyred in Africa with a number of companions, but nothing more is known about him.

No romantic elements are present in the original early medieval biographies of these martyrs.  By the time a Saint Valentine became linked to romance in the 14th century, distinctions between Valentine of Rome and Valentine of Terni were utterly lost.

Other stories suggest that Valentine may have been killed for attempting to help Christians escape harsh Roman prisons, where they were often beaten and tortured.  According to one legend, an imprisoned Valentine actually sent the first “valentine” greeting himself after he fell in love with a young girl – - possibly his jailor’s daughter – - who visited him during his confinement.  Before his death, it is alleged that he wrote her a letter signed “From your Valentine”, an expression that is still in use today.  Although the truth behind the Valentine legends is murky, the stories all emphasize his appeal as a sympathetic, heroic and – - most importantly – - romantic figure.

At the end of the 5th century, Pope Gelasius declared February 14 St. Valentine’s Day.  It was not until much later, however, that the day became definitively associated with love.  Valentine greetings were popular as far back as the Middle Ages, though written Valentine’s didn’t begin to appear until after 1400.  The oldest known valentine still in existence today was a poem written in 1415 by Charles, Duke of Orleans, to his wife while he was imprisoned in the Tower of London.

By the middle of the 18th century, it was common for friends and lovers of all social classes to exchange small tokens of affection or handwritten notes, and by 1900 printed cards began to replace written letters due to improvements in printing technology.  Ready-made cards were an easy way for people to express their emotions in a time when direct expression of one’s feelings was discouraged.

Even Pets Receive Valentines

Americans began exchanging hand-made valentines in the early 1700s.  In the 1840s, Esther A. Howland began selling the first mass-produced valentines in America.  Howland, known as the “Mother of the Valentine”, made elaborate creations with real lace, ribbons and colorful pictures known as “scrap”.  Today, according to the Greeting Card Association, an estimated 1 billion Valentine’s Day cards are sent each year, making Valentine’s Day the second largest card-sending holiday of the year.  (An estimated 2.6 billion cards are sent for Christmas). Women purchase approximately 85 percent of all valentines.

Here are some interesting Valentine’s Day facts:

  • Many believe the “X” symbol became synonymous with the kiss in medieval times.  People who couldn’t write their names signed in front of a witness with an “X”.  The “X” was then kissed to show their sincerity.
  • In the Middle Ages, young men and women drew names from a bowl to see who would be their Valentine.  They would wear this name printed onto their sleeves for one week for everyone to see.  This was the origin of the expression “to wear your heart on your sleeve”.
  • Casanova, well known as “The World’s Greatest Lover”, ate chocolate to make him virile.
  • Physicians of the 1800’s commonly advised their patients to eat chocolate to calm their pining for lost love.
  • Richard Cadbury produced the first box of chocolates for Valentine’s Day in the late 1800’s.
  • More than 35 million heart shaped boxes of chocolate will be sold for Valentine’s Day.
  • The red rose was the favorite flower of Venus, the Roman goddess of love.
  • Red roses are considered the flower of love because the color red stands for strong romantic feelings.
  • 189 million stems of roses are sold in the U.S. on Valentine’s Day.
  • Approximately 110 million roses, mostly red, will be sold and delivered within the three-day Valentine’s Day time period.
  • Teachers will receive the most Valentine’s Day cards, followed by children, mothers, wives, sweethearts and pets.
  • In addition to the United States, Valentine’s Day is celebrated in Canada, Mexico, United Kingdom, France, Australia, Denmark, and Italy.
  • Every Valentine’s Day, the Italian city of Verona, where Shakespeare’s lovers Romeo and Juliet lived, receives about 1,000 letters addressed to Juliet.

The most popular way of celebrating Valentine’s Day is to go for a romantic date with your sweetheart.  One can find restaurants thronged by lovers holding hands and expressing love.  So for those of you who choose to become engaged or married on this most romantic of holidays, I provide one cautionary message, “Marriage is grand, but divorce is a hundred grand…”

Just kidding, Happy Valentine’s Day!

EVOO – Buyer Beware

Anyone who is a fan of the Food Network quickly recognizes the reference to EVOO – Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  What most people don’t know, is what we typically buy off the supermarket shelf and even from specialty stores, falls far short of the high standards that define this remarkable substance.   I recently read the book, “Extra Virginity, the Sublime and Scandalous World of Olive Oil”, by Tom Mueller.   I’ll share his wisdom.

For a thousand years, olive oil has been a sacred symbol of religious rituals not to mention its medicinal qualities, and its use as a beauty aid.  The most aromatic of oils, it is extracted from a fruit rather than a seed, like sunflower, canola or soy oil.

But this symbol of purity is the subject of a deeply corrupt marketplace of fake products.  One of the most respected private olive oil associations is the Corporazione Mastri Oleari located in Milan.  The organization’s tasting panel adheres to strict protocol prescribed by Italian law.  Panel members train their senses to detect the faintest of flaws.  Tasters cradle brandy snifter style glasses in their palms as they smell the fragrances.  They then take a mouthful of oil by a technique known as strippaggio which causes them to suck air at the corner of their mouths which coats the taste buds and causes the oil’s aroma to travel into the nasal passages.

Unfortunately, the product which most of us have access to is not the oil of hardworking artisan producers who live to conserve the ancient and local Italian traditions, but rather a product of fraud and deceit – - some of it isn’t even made from olives.

In many ways, the most important oil producing place in the world is the region of Puglia, the heel of the Italian boot.  This area has produced oil for thousands of years, when the hillsides of famous oil areas like Tuscany and Spain were bare of groves.  Wild olives have thrived and survived in Puglia’s hot dry climate since the Ice Age where it has been a staple forever.

True EVOO is pressed or spun out of the olive pulp, yielding a fresh squeezed fruit juice with all its health enhancing ingredients intact.  Seed oils on the other hand generally require the use of solvents such as hexane for extraction.  The solvent must then be removed to eliminate unpleasant tastes and odor.  Removal occurs in a refinery where the seed oil undergoes desolventization, deodorization, bleaching and degumming.  The result is tasteless, odorless, colorless liquid fat.

The majority of olive oil now produced by multinational corporations is not EVOO despite the labeling of bottles.  Nor is it “cold pressed”, “first pressed” or even made from olives grown in Italy.  Let the buyer beware, bottles labeled “Product of Italy” hardly guarantee the purchase of EVOO.  More likely you have purchased oil from olives shipped to Italy from places like Spain and North Africa which are relabeled as Italian.  In Italy, a range of enforcement agencies work to protect the food industry, but their efforts fall short and fraud is rising steeply.

The size of the food and agriculture sector is estimated to be $5 trillion worldwide.  The enormous profits associated with food allow the unscrupulous to influence legislation, pay for campaign advertising, and otherwise silence those who question their practices.

Fortunately, true oil producers in Italy are pioneers in what has become a renaissance in EVOO.  New technologies, advances in botany and agronomy have enabled skilled Italian producers to make some of the best and healthiest oils.  Hardworking producers are creating oils with personality.  In Italy, training courses for oil sommeliers are becoming popular.  Oil bars, on the model of wine bars, are becoming popular, and restaurants are offering an oil list, similar to a wine list.  The oil list identifies different characteristics to match various dishes.  Over the last 15 years, the olive oil boom has increased consumption two-fold in North America, tripled it in Northern Europe, and six-fold in Asia.

The difficulty for us as consumers is that despite the flourishing market, true quality producers are struggling.  The wholesale price of EVOO, or what is classified as such, has plummeted over the last 10 years.  Mostly due to the questionable production techniques of the conglomerates.

The rare art employed by producers of quality oil simply can’t compete.  Consequently, olive oil has become one of the most adulterated of food products, particularly in Italy, who is the leading importer, consumer, and exporter of olive oil.  Most scams involve the mixing of low grade vegetable oils flavored and colored with plant extracts and sold in tins and bottles with fancy Italian flags and paintings, and imaginary producer names.

There is a quality divide between true extra virgin oils and the supermarket version.  Fortunately for the American consumer, organizations like the Culinary Institute of America have joined the experiment and are creating standards to allow us to identify and enjoy truly great Extra Virgin Olive Oil…The Queen of Fats.

The Romans, who created one of the longest lasting empires in history created the phrase “caveat emptor”…”let the buyer beware”.  When you purchased an amphora of oil in the Roman world, you knew from the label exactly what you were getting.  We can only hope that our journey takes us full circle and we can celebrate and enjoy the extraordinary oils that deserve the name “Extra Virgin”.

Luca Brasi Sleeps With The Fishes

“LUCA BRASI SLEEPS WITH THE FISHES”

Sal Tessio, The Godfather

What is the Feast of the Seven Fishes? It's what Italians do when they say they're fasting

Sleeping with the fishes is a reference to an old Sicilian message.  Fish are wrapped in an article of clothing belonging to a person who has been hit, whacked, or otherwise killed, and it is then wrapped in newspaper and delivered to the Capos.  The delivery signifies that the member is dead and at the bottom of the sea.

But for Grandmom Stampone and all Stampones who have followed her, sleeping with the fishes is my reference to the hard work leading up to an elaborate multicourse celebration of La Vigilia (Eve in Italian), which takes place on Christmas Eve.

Christmas Eve in Italy is a day of fasting particularly in seafood rich southern Italy.  Italian Americans, many of whom are of southern Italian extraction, continue the tradition of La Vigilia by celebrating the Feast of the Seven Fishes.  Although I refer to “sleeping with the fishes” in jest, our family celebration more often than not includes many more seafood dishes than just seven – - and Grandmom literally spent days preparing for the feast – - she really did have to sleep with the fish!  We continue this tradition each Christmas Eve at my parent’s home with the entire family involved.  Pete and Joan invite their children, grandchildren, nieces, nephews, cousins, and friends alike – - all are welcome.  Of course, multiple courses of macaroni, meatballs, sausage, antipasti, and other non-fish dishes are also included in this evening long parade of sumptuous traditional menu items.

Mom, Aunt Delores, Aunt Dora and Junior as Santa

The feast commemorates the wait for the birth of Jesus; and since eating meat was not an option on Holy Days, it features fish.  But historically no one seems to know why seven.  Grandmom said it represented the seven sacraments of the Roman Catholic Church.  Others claim it is the seven virtues.  And still others, sipping homemade wine or anisette, would argue it represents perfection.  But the number seven doesn’t matter, what matters is the togetherness that has continued in our family for the better part of 100 years.  Our meal always opens with the humblest of species, smelts and baccala, followed by such delicacies as calamari, white anchovy, Sicilian sardines, scampi, tonno, crab, claims and mussels, and any number of whole fish from flounder to branzino.    Anyway you serve it, millions of Italian Americans across the country have long been celebrating La Vigilia so I’m sure their families as well have slept with the fish.

Buon Natale!

The Sunniest Day of All

Tony Rad at the Altar

My wife Julia and I have been blessed five times with healthy children who have grown into young adults.  It seems like only yesterday that all five were in tow loaded into the Volkswagen Vanagon for a trip to Grandmom’s, the little league field, or just out to get an ice cream cone.  With ten hands to hold, every trip was an adventure.  And who can forget our insane idea to go to Disney World.  The endless luggage; the airport shuttle to the remote (a/k/a cheap) rental car lot; seven of us in a one-bedroom hotel and the madness of the daily trek to the park with five kids ages 1 to 10.    How did we do it?  Well the real answer is we didn’t do it, Julia did it.

Beautiful Sunny Day

But the favorite trip of all was always the Friday night ride to the shore.  The car was loaded down with big wheels, strollers, cabbage patch dolls, and my personal favorite, ninja turtles.  For Julia and I, there is no better memory than fishing and crabbing off our dock on Sunset Lake; sunny days on the beach with the boogie boards; and, jet ski rides with more cousins than you could possibly remember their names.

“Oh Those Wildwood Days”, special memories of so many special people.  Baba, T. Walter, Mom Kramer, Aunt Ruth and Aunt Ethel, Mr. Sterling, Atilla, and of course, the Big House.

And although our days on the dock on Sunset Lake continue to provide good memories, the sunniest shore day of all, at least for me, was September 10, 2011, just a few weeks ago.  That’s right, 9.10.11.

Bridesmaids - Andi and Kim

I can remember holding and walking Nicole, our oldest of five, for hours every evening trying to get her to settle down and fall asleep.  It seemed like a part-time job, but it was never work.  Nicole has always been a blessing.  And 30 years later, here I am, holding her again and walking her on the same dock….but this time it’s her wedding day…and she is the most beautiful of brides.  Daughters, God bless them, little girls who grow to become women.  But to a Dad, they are always little girls, your pride and joy.  And as I walked her up this nautical aisle and approached Nicole’s soon to be husband Steve, my only words were “precious cargo”.

Steve and Nicole had been dating for eight years.  They met on the same dock on which they were married and were engaged on the “lake”.  Stevie “Z” (Zamulinsky is a tough one) was beaming on that sunniest of days.  Steve, a soon to be candidate for a Master’s Degree in Aeronautical Science from Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University, and a longtime Wildwood Crest lifeguard, could not be a better match for Nicole.  Julia and I have had the opportunity to watch Steve and Nick’s relationship mature and they have grown into a wonderful couple.  I can truly say I feel our “precious cargo” is safe with a man like Steve.  We are so proud of both of them.

The Stampone's and the Z's

Steve and Nick understand that weddings are about family, all nine of their siblings played a role in their ceremony.  And, we are so fortunate for so many new relationships.  Steve is the youngest of six and the “Z’s” truly understand family.  Bill and Mary are such a good fit for Nicole, loving, caring parents, who she can count on….and a hell of a lot of fun!

We are also so fortunate to have our parents, Bill and Bunch, and Pete and Joan, attend Nicole and Steve’s special day.  They are the matriarchs and patriarchs to whom we owe everything.

There are far too many people to mention who made this day so special, but I can’t leave out cousin Tony Rad for officiating at the ceremony not to mention his stylish rendition of Bobby Darin’s “Beyond the Sea” and for cousin Lonnie’s soulful and heartfelt version of the Al Green classic, “I’m So In Love With You”.  From Nicole’s godparents, Freddie and Eva, to Aunt Dolores and Uncle Joe Foster, just to name a few, the day could not have been better.  And I know Nick and Steve will agree that everything about this special day involved Julia.  As my father likes to say, “If you don’t like Julia, you don’t like ice cream.”

9-10-11

In a way, your daughter’s wedding can be traumatic, especially for a dad.  After all, a young man is replacing you as the most important male in your daughter’s life.  But for me, there was no trauma involved.  Just a peaceful sense that Nick and Steve are right for each other and will never forget the sunniest day of all – - I know I won’t.